Garage door opener repair and new openers.

A garage door opener is a small motor doing a big job thousands of times a year. When it starts misbehaving, it's one of four things: the two safety eyes, a setting that drifted, the door itself dragging on the opener, or the opener's done. We read the unit's own fault codes in your garage to tell which, and either fix it on the spot or hang a new opener off the truck. Either way it's one visit.

Symptoms and what they mean

• No response to the remote or wall button. It's the power, the two safety eyes, or the opener's done. The motor head blinks a code that says which. We read it before we touch anything.
• The motor hums but the door doesn't move. The motor's trying and the inside gave up. We don't rebuild the inside of an old opener. A new one goes in, same trip.
• The door reverses before it closes. If it reverses in the air, it's the two photo eyes down by the floor. If it touches the floor first, it's the travel setting. Both are quick, and you don't need a new opener.
• It works only sometimes. A sensor is on its way out, or the opener is. The fault code tells us which, and both get sorted in the same visit.
• Grinding, or the chain slaps the rail. It's worn out inside, or the door itself is heavy and the opener's dragging it. We check the springs before we blame the opener. If it's the opener, you get a new one.
• It strains, lifts a few inches, gives up. That's usually a spring on its way out, and the opener's paying for it. Stop running it and call.

What gets fixed on the spot

The things that go wrong on the outside of an opener are quick, and they're the ones we fix in place:

• Safety photo-eye sensors: the two eyes near the floor. We realign, clean or replace them, and chase down the loose wiring.
• Travel and force settings: the limits that tell the door where the floor is and how hard to push. We reset them and test them through full cycles.
• Remotes, keypad and wall button: programmed before we leave, on every remote you hand us.
• The backup battery: the thing beeping at you after a power outage.
• The door itself: we check the springs and balance first. An opener dragging a heavy door dies young, and so would the new one.

Why we don't chase parts inside an old opener

Once an opener breaks on the inside, a new gear or board in it usually doesn't hold, and it's usually not cheaper than the whole thing. So we don't offer that repair. A dead opener gets a new LiftMaster or Genie off the truck: mounted, wired, travel and force set, every remote and the keypad programmed, the old one hauled off. Same trip. The new opener carries the maker's warranty, and we'll help you file a claim on it. Our opener installation page covers drive types and features.

What it costs

We don't post prices and we don't guess over the phone. The number is said in your garage, free, before any work, and it doesn't change once we start. There's no after-hours fee on nights or weekends.

Try this before you call

A few opener faults you can clear yourself: wipe the photo-eye lenses and make sure both sensor lights are solid, check the wall button and breaker, and replace the remote battery. Our opener troubleshooting guide walks through the full triage step by step. If your door closes partway and then pops back up, that's almost always sensors or limits, and the guide on a door that won't close all the way covers exactly that. If none of it works, that's when we come read the fault code and sort it in one visit.